Richard Detrich’s Boquete, Panama Weblog

How to Get to Boquete

Copa (Panamanian Airline), Continental, Delta and American all have flights from the US to Panama City.  Copa/Continental (code share) has direct flights to Panama City from Newark, Miami, Houston and Los Angeles.  It is best to arrive in Panama City in the early morning and to schedule departure flights in the late afternoon if possible.  This will eliminate the need for an overnight hotel in Panama City. 

Driving 

The Pan American Highway from Panama City to David, and thence to Boquete takes 6-7 hours and while not an Interstate, isn’t a bad highway.  It is four lanes for almost half the trip, and then two lanes, much of which is hilly (beautiful scenery!)  You do not want to make this drive a night because sections of the highway that are not well marked by US standards. 

Santiago is the half-way point and there is a Mc Donald’s and Kentucky Fried Chicken which the locals use as rest stops because they have nice bathrooms (generally with toilet paper).  (Hint: Always travel with a small roll of toilet paper tucked away.) 

I figure 5 ½ to  6 hours to David, and another 35-40 minutes from David to Boquete.  (Hint: A Panamanian would never be so anal about driving time!) 

Your goal is to drive THROUGH the city without getting lost.  Before leaving the airport get detailed directions.  You’ll take Corridor del Sur (toll road) into the city from Tocumen.  It empties out on Avenida Balboa.  You’ll drive down Balboa past the big hotels and turn right by a Shell station (problem is, there are more than one Shell stations) on Avenida Central which goes a short distance before you see a sign to Amador/Puente de Los Americas.   You are near some areas (all big cities have them) where you do not want to get lost, particularly at night.  Driving in Panama City is horrendous (that from an ex-New Yorker, ex-Californian!) and it is easy to go in circles.  (Hint: If you get lost, hire a taxi to lead the way.)

Rental cars are also available at the airport in David, if you choose to fly to David.

By Air 

Panama City has two airports.  You will arrive at the International Airport, Tocumen, which is about 35 km from downtown.  Domestic flights leave from Albrook or Gelabert Airport in the old Canal Zone.  It’s  a $30 cab ride between airports, plus tolls if you use Corridor del Sur  (Hint: As in any country, ask the fare and establish the price before getting in the cab, but $30 IS the official price between airports.  $25 plus toll is the official price between the International airport at Tocumen and downtown Panama City.) 

Aeroperlas www.aeroperlas.com is the main interior airline with three flights a day to David.  You can book your ticket online.  Cost is about $60 each way.  One leaves early in the morning, one midmorning, and one late afternoon.   If you arrive on a red-eye flight from the US you will just miss the two morning flights, and need to take the afternoon flight.   Air Panama also has flights www.flyairpanama.com but their system never seems to accept US credit cards, so I just don’t bother tryig with them any more.

My suggestion: See a little of Panama City. Negotiate with a cab driver to hire him as a driver for about $12 an hour.  Have him show you the city: the causeway, the canal and locks, then have him drop you off at the Albrook Mall.  It’s a nice, Miami-style mall with an enormous food court.  Relax.  The Albrook airport is 15 minutes away.  Show up at least an hour early for your flight.   

Enjoy the hour-long flight!  You’ll see the Canal and Centennial Bridge from the air, fly over gorgeous mountains and jungle, see the Pacific islands off David, and generally the afternoon flight is an E-ticket ride (warm air currents rising off the lowlands), but relax, these guys do this every day! 

It’s a $30 cab ride from David airport to Boquete (again, arrange fare first). 

By Bus

Express buses leave the main Panama City bus terminal at Albrook for David.  $15.  Takes 7 hours with a rest stop halfway.  They arrive in David and you can get a cab to Boquete for about $25.  Buses are big tourist-type buses, air conditioned (sometimes to a fault).  It’s a good way to see the scenery without the hassles of driving unfamiliar roads.

If You Need/Wish to Stay In Panama City 

If you arrive in the afternoon or evening and need to spend the night in Panama City here are some suggestions.

Hotel Riande, Aeropuerto ($75-95) –  A stones throw from Tocumen, the International Airport.  Basic, very modest, former Holiday Inn, a 60’s time-warp.  Nice pool area.  Functional. Includes breakfast. (570-290-3333)  Ask for “Interior” rate or Corporate.  (Hint: Almost everything in Panama has discounts, you just need to ask for them.)

Country Inn & Suit, Amador ($95-$130) – Familiar US chair, faces Panama Canal (Hint: Pay a little more a night and upgrade to a room facing the Canal!)  Includes nice breakfast.  You can buy a good Panama map (the one with a red parrot on the front) in the gift shop.  Ask for directions when your leave in the morning to the Bridge of the Americas as it’s easy, but tricky to find the entrance.  There’s a TGI Friday’s in the hotel with outside dining where you can watch the ships go by.   Be sure and drive out the causeway for a spectacular view of Panama City, especially a night.  In the even the causeway is loaded with joggers, in-line skaters, folks strolling.  There’s a great little restaurant about halfway out that’s moderately priced and has a great view.

If you want to see a little of Panama City you can hire a taxi driver and you should be able to negotiate (of course in advance!) for about $12 an hour.  Many locals do just that when they go to Panama City to conduct business to avoid the hassles of driving in Panama City.

If you want to see a little while you are in Panama City, try these:

Pacific Queen is a small boat that actually offers a day-trip transit of the canal.  Pricey, but cheaper than a full canal cruise on Princess or Holland America!  www.ptymarineadventures.com  (507-226-8917)

If you have a day you can take a never-to-be forgotten trip deep into the jungle to an Embera Indian village. Adventures In Panama offers a guided tour from Panama City that includes transportation from your hotel, ride by dug out canoe to the village, lunch, and commentary by a knowledgeable guide.  Cost runs from $70-$190 per person, depending on the number of participants.  ($190 is for a solo tour.) On our most recent trip we saw amazing birds, turtles, even a monkey and a huge alligator!  The Embera have spectacular baskets and carvings that they offer for sale at the village.  You will be amazed to learn of the many plants the Embera use for natural healing and to hear the stories of modern pharmaceutical companies who have visited to learn the secrets of jungle plants.

Recommendations

Boquete Garden Inn Delightful eco lodge with it’s beautiful gardens on the banks of a rushing stream that you can hear from your room.  Attractive and thoughtful accommodations. www.boquetegardeninn.com

Isla Verde(left) is a few minutes walk from Boquete’s main street and offers six open, bright and spacious roundhouses and 2 enchanting suites. All dwellings are situated in a lush tropical garden setting. Every unit is outfitted with bath and kitchen as well as hot and cold water.  Private and homey, each suite offers either a walk out balcony with precious views or a step down to your lush tropical garden.  Eva (507) 720.2533. www.islaverdepanama.com

Hotel Los Establos is one of the finest places to stay in Boquete.  The hotel was originally built as a stables for horses (although horses have never occupied the rooms) and was converted to a luxury B&B in 2000. It sits on 4 hectares (12 acres) of an estate quality coffee plantation. The magnificent views are of the pueblo below and the Baru Volcano and its numerous cones, which dominate the skyline.  Six rooms, very personalized service.  Very nice if a bit pricy.  http://www.losestablos.net

The hundred-year-old European-style Panamonte Inn & Spal is run by 3 generations of the Elliot-Collins family and offers lodging and fine dining.  The cocktail lounge is one of the most inviting, comfortable anywhere.  Dinner for two with candlelight, linen, china, multiple courses and wine will set you back almost $50 including tip!  507 720-1327 http://www.panamonteinnandspa.com/us/index.htm

Valle Escondido Resort is on the property where we live. One of the nicer places to stay in Boquete with indoor pool, gym, racquetball, and golf.  Within walking distance of town, yet away from what is sometimes a noisy downtown, especially on payday weekends.  http://resort.valleescondido.biz/

Chiriqui River Rafting is a family operation  located in Boquete using US-style river rafting equipment and offering a variety of adventurous river rafting experiences on the rushing Chriqui rivers, offering class II, III & IV adventures. http://www.panama-rafting.com

Property Tours & Seminars

Property Tours & Seminars are a big business!  You may find them helpful, particularly if you are hesitant to visit an area for the first time.  However, take everything with a grain of salt.  These are generally expensive, far more expensive than hiring us to show you Chiriqui, and you are a “captive audience”.  So, if you want to spend your money, fine, just go it with eyes wide open.  It’s not quite as bad as, but a little like, time share tours.