The Mail

Fly fishing?

Hi Richard-I came across your site and blog. What fun being an expat in Boquete!

My husband and I are travelling to Panama in January, 2010. We are taking the all day canal transit tour on Jan. 16th. ( We are not cruise ship people) We live in the Sunriver Resort, south of Bend,Oregon. Perhaps you know of it or have been here.

We were thinking of visiting the Kuna Indians at one of the San Blas Islands. i.e. El Porvenir or Playa Chico or ? Can you recommend which island to go to for a night or two to experience their culture? Also, my husband is an avid fly fisherman. Do you know of fly fishing either in the ocean or rivers in ALL of Panama?

Next, we have friends that live in Boquete (your home) where we want to explore your area. See a coffee plantation, etc. We don’t know how many days to allocate to see your area. Any ideas? Then we fly from David to San Jose, Costa Rica. Thanks in advance for any assistance, guidance, recommendations you might have for us. We’ll only make this trip once in our life time so we want to do/see all we can. Haley Dahlquest

Hi Haley! Well, let’s start with your last comment . . . “We’ll only make this trip once in our life time”. That’s what we and a whole lot of other folks who live here now as expats thought! So, good luck! I know Bend is nice . . . my daughter went to Willamette . . . and you may be surprised by Boquete. We’d lived in Colorado for six years, and many times as I’m driving down the mountain I think Boquete is like Colorado without snow. I’d plan on at least 4 or 5 days in Boquete . . . there are coffee tours, river rafting (our water is warmer than yours!), hiking . . . lots to explore. I’m not a fisherman and know nothing about fly fishing, but I have heard that if you get high in the mountains above the coffee farms that there are native trout and fly fishing. My neighbors in Boca Chica, Bruce at www.gonefishingpanama.com can give you the lowdown on fishing in the Pacific.

Unfortunately we haven’t had time yet to get out to the San Blas. We had a trip all planned, then something came up. I know that it is pretty undeveloped as a tourist destination by choice of the Kuna. There are some small hotels that are run by the Kuna and they would be your best bet.

I’m sure some of my readers know a lot more about this than I do, so maybe they will chime in and share some advice, which I will pass on.

On Carnival Miracle . . .

Hi Richard! I have enjoyed your links through Cruise Critic as I being my research for our upcoming cruise. We are sailing on the Carnival Miracle in February 2010, this will be our first time visiting Panama, and we are scheduled to be in port from 0700 to 1700. Traveling with me are my 77 year old mother (who is in good shape!) and my two sisters. My youngest sister is a stroke survivor, and has some mobility issues, but she can walk distances, albeit a little slower than most. We always make a point of enjoying some of the culture of the country we are visiting. Do you have any recommendations for tours to avoid (because of age/mobility) or ones we should consider. We usually venture out on our own and steer clear of the ships excursions because of the size of the tours, so we are not fearful of doing that. Our safety is of utmost concern to us (and my husband, who is not coming along on this cruise!) My mother would like to see the canal and locks, my sisters the wildlife, and I am easy to please! Is there any tour you are familiar with that would cover those particular sights? Thank you for any advice you may have for us! And we will happily stick with the ships tours if you think that is the best option for four women! Thank you in advance! Gail Foley

As an aside . . . I’m glad Carnival has started coming up with names like CARNIVAL DREAM and CARNIVAL MIRACLE . . . the old run of ships . . . ECSTASY, FANTASY and SENSATION . . . all sounded like condom brand names!

Hi Gail! For wildlife I would suggest the “Gatun Lake Safari” where you go by a small boat – 20 or so people – out on Gatun Lake. The guy who runs this tour lives on a houseboat in Gatun Lake and knows where the monkeys and stuff hang out, so you will see wildlife. They do a nice Panamanian lunch on his houseboat, and you will be crossing the Canal itself at several points and see the ships going across Gatun Lake and some of the work going on to enlarge the channel. You won’t see the locks. You will have to get in and out of a boat, but the boat guys are very helpful and the only walking involved is on and off the bus and to and from the boat.

To see the Canal there is a tour that will take you by ferry-boat through Pedro Miquel and Miraflores. You’ll see the locks and the main part of the Canal and get a glimpse of Panama City. Again the only walking is to and from the bus. Experiencing the Canal on a small ferry-boat is different from on a large ship and you can reach out and touch the sides of the Canal. Unfortunately, no wildlife.

So it is a choice which you want: wildlife or Canal. I would definitely recommend going through the ship and not attempting this on your own.

Looking for a deal . . .

My husband and I want to do a trip to the Panama Canal in Jan or Feb. We have only done one cruise before to Acapulco. Now I am looking for a good deal—to maybe only do part of the canal and more ports in the Caribbean. My husband just was forced to retire—laid off from his job. Lily

Life is change and growth and there is no growth without change, so good luck to both of you and I know you will make the best out of your situation and hopefully look back someday and think that was the best thing that happened to us. [Check out my earlier post on THE AGE OF THE UNTHINKABLE, an interesting book which applies not only to geopolitics and economics, but also to the challenges of our personal lives.]

Right now there are still some good deals . . . steals? . . . out there as cruise lines fill their ships at any price.  I’d look at the 10-day cruises that go into the Canal and are round-trip from Florida, like ZUIDERDAM. 

Any insight into . . . life??

Aloha Richard, We are considering a Panama Canal cruise this March-May. I think one leaves on May first. Are there must see, should skip ports? And also any insight into ships? We have been on Princess and HAL only, but not these ships. Thank you, Sharie

Sharie . . . Sharie . . . Sharie.  Try my Panama Cruise page, my Cruise page, or just click on the sidebar to the right on Cruising and Travel and you can enjoy all my fount of knowledge and insight.  That’s kinda why I took the time to put all that stuff here.   Then, if you have more questions, shout.  Aloha.

Snakes . . .

Richard, We will be on HAL Oosterdam (11/02/2009) and will enter Canal at Cristobal at 5:00 a.m. 11/08, exit Canal at Balboa at 7:00 p.m. and depart Fuerte Amador at 5:00 p.m. 11/09. I really want to visit the Embera Village but am very concerned that I may see a snake! I am terrified to even be in the vicinity of one that may be brought by me for viewing! At a distance I would be ok. Is it “safe” for me to make this tour? Any other suggestions for what to do at this stop? My husband will probably do one of the other tours – Observation Center or Panama Railroad.  Thank you for your help. Lynne

Lynne, you should be so lucky as to actually see a snake in the wild.   Go in peace.  It is a very “safe” tour for you and others.  The only tour I know where they bring out a snake . . . a nice boa . . . and let people who wish hold it, is on the “Gatun Lake Safari” tour.    People who take the Embera Village tour love it!  And no snakes!

Smaller ship in Canal . . .

Hi Richard I am doing some background work on cruising thru the Panama Canal. My husband is not interested in cruising on a large line but we also have at most 10 days to play with. We are also bringing my 76 yr old mom with us. This is one of her dream trips she is in good shape but does tire. Can you suggest where to look and what to look for I was reading thru cruise critic and it seems you know a lot but the trips thru the canal. Any help would be appreciated thanks Dawn Davis Keidawn

Princess has four ships described as being like “a day aboard a 5-star country inn”.  One of these is the ROYAL PRINCESS where I am heading in exactly . . . 21 days.   These ships hold only about 600 guests.  The ISLAND PRINCESS is doing 10-day trips into the Canal round trip from Florida and would be ideal for you.

Injustice . . . what’s new?

Richard:  I read your blog today on the above subject [US drug strategy] and thought I would add another recent twist. Not only is Prohibition not working in America it is also affecting the sovereignty of the country to the north. In a complete act of injustice (because we in Canada have reciprocal laws of extradition with the US), the Canadian authorities have been forced to hand over Marc Emery (the Prince of Pot) for selling marijuana seeds south of the border.

An act, that at worse would maybe get a month in jail in Canada, has netted Mr. Emery (a Canadian citizen who has never even been in the US and an active advocate of marijuana legalization) a sentence of 5 years in an American prison! This is wrong!  I am ashamed of my country for allowing this to happen to a Canadian citizen and am completely at odds with the complete waste of money and short-sightedness of my American neighbours in this regard. Garth Liseth,  B.C., Canada

Garth, I too am often shocked and ashamed by the injustice of the US court and legal system.  We do not behead people . . . but we do take their lives, sentencing them to life in prison without possibility of parole for simply being at the wrong place at the wrong time, like Brandon Hein.  What makes it worse is that the US sets itself up as the judge of perceived injustices in the rest of the world, while committing atrocities like with Brandon here at home.

“You hypocrite, first take the plank out of your own eye, and then you will see clearly to remove the speck from your brother’s eye.” -Jesus, Matthew 7:4

Karl, who disagrees with me on Brandon, but is not an ogre . . .

Here’s a low-cost drying solution for your coffee. Probably too late this year with your planned work ahead, but fine for next year. This type of dryer will work rain or shine, and even if overcast, will collect sufficient heat for drying coffee in Panama.

http://www.fao.org/ class=”hiddenSpellError” pre=”">docrep/T1838E/T1838E0v.htm

( I’m not always an ogre, and enjoy the majority of your posts. )

Thanks, Karl.  I will check that out.   We need all the help we can get drying this stuff.  And, for the record, I didn’t call you an ogre . . . almost everything else, but not an ogre.  Thanks for thinking of me . . . and hanging in here!

“Gatun Lake Safari”

I saw your comments about wildlife during a Panama Canal cruise, and specifically “Gatun Lake Safari”. I searched the Internet, but could not find the tour operator. can you give me contact information.

I’m not sure that you can book this tour independently since it requires a certain number of participants and the availability is limited.  If a ship is in the ship’s tour operator has booked the tour completely.  You need to book it through Shore Ex on your ship, either in advance on the Internet or on board.

Day in Puntarenas . . . with kids!

Richard, I know that you’re the expert on Panama, not costs Rica but….. we’re in port @ Puntarenas for one day. Would you have any suggestions of things that we should do w/ twin 11 yr old boys in tow? Thanks so much! Bonnie

There’s really not much to do in Puntarenas.  There is beach, right in town, within walking distance of the ship, that’s used a lot by locals.  On weekends it’s crowded with families.  There is a zip line tour, depending on the size of your twins and the requirements.  The tropical train, rafting (again depending on size requirements) and eco-jungle river tour would be interesting.   A lot of the Puntarenas tours require a lot of bus time so it depends on how your kids do on buses.

A dildo by any other name . . .

I was in the U.S. Air Force and assigned to Japan in 1950. I did some train rides during my off duty days and on one of my adventures I chanced to be in Komaki in the middle of March. The city was at a standstill with the parade and crowds all celebrating Honen Matsuiand. I took some pictures of young girls walking out of the crowd and smooching giant replicas of the male organ. While wandering the crowd, I bought a small cardboard box inside of which was a 6″ hand carved wood penis. I still have it. One of the only things I brought home from the Korean War. J Morris

Man, are you lucky the TSA wasn’t around when you came home from Korea!   “Attention all TSA personnel: we have a dildo alert at position three.”   

So the 240 pound highly trained and educated TSA screener with tight black pants, a shirt with the tail hanging out in back and overbearing military manner says, “So, sir . . . you look like a straight shooter, and having survived Korea . . . what the hell are you doing with a 6″ dildo in your luggage?  Flesh-colored, soft latex we can allow provided you keep it in your luggage at all times and do not remove it, use it, or fondle it during the flight, but, but a 6″ wooden dildo.  Sir, that’s a dangerous weapon of terrorism and must be confiscated.”

Later . . . in the break room, “Hey Mabel, look at this baby!   This straight-looking Air Force dude . . . I didn’t ask and he  obviously wasn’t telling . . . tried to smuggle this onto the plane.  Come to momma, baby . . . “

Counting the days . . . until I leave on ROYAL PRINCESS . . .

So whose calendar has the bigger X’s on it marking off the days until you leave for your big trip..yours or Nikki’s? Dinah

Nikki’s, I am sure!

Coming home . . .

Hi… I just found this site of yours through Google. Amazing! This is what I’ve been looking for many months now! You are a gem of knowledge to me. I am a Panamanian native, born in David Chiriqui. I have lived in California for many years and now wish to move back to my country, yet I am very, very Americanized. Even though I am Panamanian,with dark skin, they still look at me  ”>differntly. I was in David and Boquete two years ago with my wife and first son. I am 29 years old, married with two small children …. I want to move to Boquete! My plan is to build and pastor a church in David. I was considering to buy a house in “Los Montes Del Caldera”. I have many questions before I sell everything I own in California to move back to Panama and do a work for God and be with my family. Would you, sir be willing to assist me with the practicalities of a Panama life style. Thanks, Arcinio Arauz

Arcinio, welcome home!  I took my car to a local “shade tree” mechanic the other day and bumped into a friend of his, a young Panamanian guy who’d gone to the states, fallen in love, got married, and had lived about 15 years in the States.  About 8 months ago he’d come back home to Boquete and was so happy to be back in Panama.  I know that people leave Panama, just like they leave the States, for many reason.  And for many in Panama the States seem like the promised land of opportunity.  But . . . good Panamanian friends of ours have family that live in Simi Valley, California, close to where we lived for 18 years in Ventura.   They LOVE Simi Valley.  Simi Valley!   They talk as if it is almost heaven!  And they are from Boquete!!  Go figure!   I guess to each his own.

I’m sure that many folks who are looking to “escape” to what they perceive to be a “better life” will shake their heads.  But home is home and right now I think there is increasing opportunity for Panamanians who understand the anglo world outside of Panama to come home, bring back some of their experience and apply it here.  The current mayor of Boquete spent time as a young man outside of Panama and as a community we are better for for it because he has brought ideas from North America to Boquete that are tremendously helpful in this time of growth.

Like moving into any community, even if you are coming back, it takes some time to fit in and adjust.  Acknowledging your Americanization is a good start.  Frankly, aside from the fact that you speak Spanish, you may have the same troubles adjusting to Panama as the rest of us.  It ain’t California!  But if God is calling you . . . what can you do?    Let me know how I can help.  What church or denomination are you affiliated with?  Training?  Background?

Working in Panama . . .

hello im thinking of moving to david. i am a university trained american nurse with a speciality in cardiology. is there much employment for nurses in david? Or do you know of any web sites i can Judy

First, the bad news. If you are not a Panamanian you can’t be employed in Panama. Even as a nurse. We have a friend of ours, Dr. Newton Osbourn, who was born up the road from David in Concepcion. He got a scholarship to Yale, then went on to the University of Michigan, and practiced in OB-GYN ending up at Walter Reed. He is one of the world’s experts on treating women with AIDS and lectures all over the world. When he retired he moved back to Panama and was our neighbor when we lived in Valle Escondido. He wanted to be of service and to work in the local Indian clinic, but Panama would not recognize his medical training or experience. He would have to intern in Panama! Incredible, but true! And so, determined to serve, he did! He jumped through the hoops and now is offering his expertise on the staff of the Women & Children’s Hospital in David. But he is Panamanian. Judy even if you were to jump through the hoops here, as a non-Panamanian citizen my understanding is that you could not be employed.

However . . . the work around is to consult. You can set up your own business of one and be a consultant. Or you can develop a related business, like being a “visiting consultant” (“visiting nurse” would imply a medical practice, which you don’t want) who assists and consults primarily with some of us “aging gringos” who now need, or are going to need, that kind of assistance.

Two Years!

OK, questions and comments . . .

Plan my cruise . . .

Hello sir, After reading your interesting blogs in cruise critics, I would like to ask you for some suggestions/tours to take. We are planning to take a Panama Canal Cruise on early Dec/January/Feb, we are on our early 40’s, in a tight budget but would like to have some unforgettable time on the following ports.
ARUBA
FUERTE AMADOR, PANAMA
PUERTO CALDERA, COSTA RICA
PUERTO QUETZAL, GUATEMALA
PUERTO CHIAPAS
HUATULCO
ACAPULCO
This will be our first Panama Canal Cruise. Thank you. Julius Cristobal

Hey Julius, like your last name, Cristobal . . . as in Christopher . . . as in Cristobal, the section of Colon where there is a pier that many of the Canal ships use. Check my page Panama Cruise for more . . . depending on how long you have in Fuerte Amador, which is really the Amador Peninsula area of Panama City, I have some suggestions for you on the Panama Cruise page. Aruba . . . go enjoy the beach! Take a $2.50 city bus from the station across from where the ships dock and have fun! Acapulco . . . the best view is from the ship IMHO. Cliff divers are highly overrated, again IMHO. Huatulco, not much to see where the ship docks. I usually just spend some time on the tiny beach. Puerto Caldera . . . beach in town, but other than that there’s nothing there unless you take a tour. Guatemala . . . definitely get up to Antiqua! If you don’t want a ship tour, get a few other couples together and rent a van. It’s worth the trip. Enjoy!

Get off the ship!

Hi…i really love your blog. Could you please tell me if you would recommend that I stay on the Mercury to cruise through the Panama canal…or should I take a shore excursion? any help would be great! thanks, Irene

Irene, I don’t know what itinerary every ship is doing . . . depends on MERCURY itinerary, and what your options and choices are. My Panama Cruise page gives a lot of information that will help. Generally I think you should be on for at least one lock experience, and then, when possible, take advantage of the opportunity to see some of Panama . . . you’ve come all this way! Suggestions for Panama tours depend on your areas of interest . . . again, that’s why I wrote the Panama Cruise page! You’ll love MERCURY!

Popular retirement destinations . . .

Didn’t know if you’ve seen this. Re: recent retirement rating destinations.
http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/RetirementandWills/RetireInStyle/the-worlds-best-places-to-retire.aspx

Iaorana! Bob P.S. Can you tell we’re getting ready to go on a 33 day HAL Rotterdam/French Polynesia cruise in January?

You’ll love the ROTTERDAM Bob! Susan Wood, one of my favorite cruise directors, is often on the ROTTERDAM, although I heard she may have left Holland America, and I understand that Joseph Pokorski may be heading to ROTTERDAM. I’ve worked with Joseph as cruise director and also as one of the stars of the new entertainment approach Holland is rolling out on the smaller ships. Joseph is a fantastic tenor with experience in opera and Broadway. You may be in luck!

That’s an interesting article . . . and you note that Ecuador is just a few points higher than Panama on International Living’s rankings. I know several folks who’ve moved on from Boquete to Ecuador. One is back in the States . . . the other hasn’t been there that long. 8,000 feet elevation rules a lot of retired folks out . . . I understand the cost of living right now is cheaper. The fact that Panama uses the US dollar was an advantage . . . I thought. Time will tell. You gotta find a place where you feel comfortable.

Elizabeth Taylor (really!) asks . . .

Hi I am going on a cruise around the Caribbean to Aruba,Colombia, Cristobal pier, Costa Rica and Gran Cayman I am coming from England and leaving from Miami.Could you please tell me if I need any Visa please Elizabeth Taylor

Elizabeth, I’m not the person to ask about this . . . for US citizens I know that no visas are required. I would doubt that it’s any different for UK/EU folks, but to be sure you need to check with your travel agent and/or the cruise line. I know cruise lines are increasingly ducking these kind of questions, telling you to check. The fine print in most cruise contracts tells you that the cruise line isn’t responsible for anything, and I suppose their lawyers have told them to shift the burden back on the passenger. I’ve found some of the bigger visa service sites are a quick and easy way to find out and generally very accurate and up-to-the-minute. Enjoy your cruise!

Responding to my post about hospital costs in Panama, David says . . .

Do not forget about Jubilado Descounto. If you are over 55 for women or 60 for men you can ask for a discount at pharmacies, hospitals and hotels which can range from 10 to 50% off. David Maples

Technically, you are correct . . . BUT . . . in my opinion the “Jubilado Discount” . . . offered to Panamanians who are over a certain age and to expats who have been granted a “Pensionado” visa, is the most overhyped thing in Panama. Folks selling Panama love to opine about the “Pensionado” benefits . . . There are sometimes you would have to be totally insensitive to ask for the discount, other times . . . like with medical stuff . . . you have know way of knowing what the regular fee is. Maybe they’ve just inflated the regular fee since you are a gringo and “all gringos are fabulously wealthy” and they figure you’ll ask for the discount anyway, so you still end up paying more than a normal, working Panamanian who walks through the door. I know that’s not the law, but unless you’re ex-Canal, know these people, and speak Spanish fluently . . . how are you going to complain, much less discuss it. Most restaurants in Boquete automatically up the price to adjust for the discount, especially if they have a big “gringo “clientele. I look at the prices and can tell pretty quickly if they are “gringo” or “Panamanian” prices, and we have both . . . although not legally . . . on everything. Send your maid to the farmer’s market, and if they don’t know she’s working for a gringo, you’ll be stunned at the prices she’s paying for produce, compared to what you pay. Unfortunately there are some Panamanians who aren’t sure how long all this is going to last, so they want to get theirs while the getting is good. I have a neighbor who was going to lay cement blocks for me and agreed to work for $15 a day. A fair rate. The next day when he was supposed to start work he didn’t show. I’m sure he went home and his wife said, “For a gringo! They have all kinds of money! You should have asked for $30!” And I just might have paid it then . . . not now. I’m scouting around for shipping containers and the going rate is about $2500-3000. I was talking with the wife of a local guy who brings these up from Colon when he’s making a trucking run empty. She had quoted me $3000 for a 40-foot container, delivered to my farm. I went back to see her and a so-called “friend” of this family was there, and the wife wasn’t. And he, knowing I was there to see the wife said, “Oh, I can get you a container!” trying to beat out his friend for the business. I asked, “How much?” And I could see the wheels turning as he paused to consider just how much he could get from this stupid gringo while at the same time beating out his friend. “$10,000.” I could go on and on, but won’t.

2 years and 200,000 visitors!

Who knew? Certainly not me when I started this October 16, 2007, not sure anybody would read it! 200,000 visitors later, and folks from all over the world, all I can say is “Thank you!” It’s been fun, a lot of work, but still fun. And what I enjoy most is meeting folks on cruises and around Boquete who first met me online and when we talk about something, or I say, “Nice to meet you”, respond with something like, “Oh, I know all about you!” scary, huh? And I enjoy your comments and questions, so keep reading, and keep the comments coming!

Reluctantly I have concluded that at this point, and with my commitments to cruise lines, I just can’t post a new blog every day . . . so, starting today I will be blogging on even-numbered days only . . . whenever that is possible. There are times onboard ship when we’re not getting the satellite signal, or there is some interference, and the Internet is down, but as much as I possibly can, I’ll be here on even-numbered days.

I thought you might get a kick out of seeing how all this has played out!

Your Comments & Questions

Have a heart . . .

Richard, Are you able to able to share the name of the cardiologists both in Chiriqui and P-city that were recommended to your wife Thanks, Mountainman

Sure . . . the Cardiologist, whose office is at Mae Lewis Hospital in David, is Dr. Franklin Anguixola Santos [507-774-2453] and the surgeon, Dr. Norberto Javier Calzada, [507-204-8300 Ex 811] Cardiologos Associados de Panama, in Panama City at Hospital Paitilla.

New home construction . . .

I am a student researching the homes of the Indigenous people of Panama and I will like to get more information on how they are built. I have seen pictures, however I need more detailed information on how they are constructed (materials, structure).Can someone point me in the right direction?Celia Evangelista

 Celia, Come on down and see for yourself! For Kuna, Embera and Wounan, almost all of their houses are primarily palm. Different types of palm are used for the sides, thatched roof, and flexible flooring. Bamboo is also a popular building material. Over around Bocas del Torro wood is the primary material. My Embera friend tells me it takes about a week to build a house, and it is a project in which the entire village helps out. The Embera houses are generally open on the sides, except during the windy season, when they put up palm siding. Tradition is very important, so the Embera used a notched log as a front stairway. Usually the “kitchen” is made by putting down layers of banana leaves, then dirt, then more banana leaves until you have a non-flamable base sitting on top of the flooring, You add three big logs, to support the pot, and voila! – a stove. Our local Gnobe Bugle prefer a “fagon”, the outside raised cooking platform, to the little gas stoves we supply because they are able to better control the heat and flame with the open fire. My Embera friend’s house is a lot cheaper to build, goes up quicker, and has a whole lot less problems than mine!

Veragua Rainforest . . .

Is there any way to arrange in advance a taxi to bring (pick up later) my husband and me from the cruise ship port to Veragua Rainforest? Or is it easy to arrange that at the port after we arrive there? Kyung Mueller

There are lots of cabs right at the end of the pier. The red cabs are the licensed ones, and the ones you should use. There are also several local tour operators who will take you out to Veragua with others in a mini-bus. Take a raincoat or poncho along since it rains in the rainforest!

Private tours in Panama . . .

Found your address at a cruisecritic blog. I’m from Tampa Florida and taking a cruise to the Canal with Island Princess. We will be there Friday October 16. I was originally told that I could only do the Cruiseship tours, but then I found a posting on a Friends of Mario that does tours. Seem you live there and have experience cruising. Can I tour with private tours when ariving on a ship? Anyone you recommend? Thanks, hope I’m not overstepping by asking for your assistance. Madeline Tejera

There are lots of questions about this on Cruise Link. First, check out my Panama Cruise  page . . . A lot depends on which ship you are taking and the itinerary. Princess has a variety of options and without spending a lot of time on their Website, off the top, I don’t know what ISLAND PRINCESS is doing on October 16th. If the ship is calling on the Pacific side at Amador (part of Panama City) you can do whatever you want, same thing if it is stopping at Colon (Colon 2000, RCL pier, or Cristobal) . . . If you have enough time. Remember, Panama looks small on the map but traffic is horrendous especially in the afternoon just before a lot of ships are sailing. If the ship is dropping anchor in Gatun Lake to let off guests there for shore excursions, in Gatun Lake you cannot get off the ship unless you are taking a shore excursion booked on board. You tender off to a place called “Gatun Lake Yacht Club” . . . where there is not a yacht or any other kind of boat in sight! There is nothing at Gatun Lake Yacht Club but a parking lot where the tour buses are waiting. It is the Panama Canal Authority, not the cruise line, that only allows guests to disembark who have purchased shore excursions. (Man, I know that line backwards and forwards!) Reason: it is a secure area of the Canal with no public access: no cabs, no vendors, nada.

I don’t know anything about Mario. He either has a big following, or a lot of family members who post on Cruise Critic. I do know Anne Gordon who offers independent tours of the Embera Indian Village. She is a gringa from California, married to an Embera man from the village, so she knows a lot about Embera life and has many unique insights.

My advice is generally to take a ship tour. You spend all this money on a cruise, why go through the hassle and risk of doing your own thing? A ship’s tour is generally the easiest, safest, and most efficient way to get the most out of a relatively brief time in a port. The cruise line vets operators to make sure they have insurance, monitors their performance, and will never leave if a tour bus is late. If you go on your own you take your chances. The further the attraction is from the pier, the more important it is, IMHO, to take a ship tour.

I know folks don’t want to feel they are in a “herd with Red number Eight” stickers. Well, folks, I have news for you. Take your independent tour to Ephesus . . .and there will be 4 Holland America groups behind you, 6 Royal Caribbean groups ahead of you, 3 Princess groups to your left, and a bunch of crazy Germans from AIDA eves-dropping on your “private” English guide. Go to the Colosseum and you’ll stand in a line of thousands waiting to get in along with all the ship tour groups. I don’t get it!

Start with the blog . . .

Hi Richard, I got your e-mail off your posts on Cruise Critic (OhioLair on CC). I have been doing research on what to do, where to do it and so on by scouring the boards. Everytime I found something informative and interesting, it was one of your posts! Thanks for all the info, and if you have any other suggestions I would appreciate a reply. We are sailing on the Statendam Oct 30th from San Diego… with stops in Puerto Vallarta, Huatulco (I liked your Carona suggestion), Puerto Quetzal, Puerto Chiapas, Fuerte Amador (The causeway sounds like an interesting area) and Cartagena! Always on a budget, any inside suggestions, hints or tips will be greatly appreciated. I am also going to check out your blog when I have a few minutes.  Thanks, Larry Potts

Hey Larry! I’ve tried to put a lot of effort, and certainly a lot of time into this blog to answer most of these questions. Start with my Panama Cruise  page, then go to the right hand column and click on the “Cruising and Travel” category and it will open a whole list of blogs on cruising and travel.   I realize the cost of tours booked through the ship is more than the cost if you book independently, just like the cost of a Coke or a beer is more onboard.  That’s how the cruise line makes its money, especially if you look at the prices of cruises right now.  Believe me, I understand “saving a buck”, but when you go on vacation you need to loosen up the sphincter a bit and enjoy life!    There are ports where I’d say, “Do your own thing!”  If you are going to Portofino, just go ashore independently, find a nice cafe, pay $50 for a cup of coffee and sit there and soak up the ambiance.  But there are many ports where the attractions and the things you came to see aren’t right next to the ship, and those are the ports where it is easiest, most efficient, and often cost-effective to take the ship’s tour, even if it is more expensive up front.

* * * * *

Well this morning is a spectacular Sunday morning in Boquete!  Absolutely stunning!  This past week has been “the week that was”, which I’ll tell you about later.  The guy who usually works on Sundays for me doing concrete and block work fell last week on his regular job, and can’t work this morning . . . A day with no workers!! No questions!! No struggling with Spanish!! Also no progress, but . . . hey!

I’ve got a dozen “Sailaway” and “Sailin” presentations to work on . . . so I’m off to sit on the front porch, relax, and sip our own coffee.  We just had the first batch of last year’s harvest roasted and it is wonderful!  This year’s coffee is looking great and our harvest should begin next week.

Have a great day!

David and The Mail

Ah . . . David! Turns out we need 22 more thingies for the ceiling at 39 cents a piece, and HOPSA only has a showroom in David. So I either let the project redoing the casita for my brother stall, or drive all the way to David, $20 worth of gas, to pick up the damn thingies! Panama’s new President, Ricardo Martinelli, has promised a new four-lane highway between David and Boquete, with construction starting next year. The construction period will be a zoo, but the existing highway is inadequate and unsafe for the volume of traffic.

David is booming! As an Panamanian attorney friend told me, next to Panama City, Chiriqui is the richest province in Panama. The chance since we moved here over 5 years ago is amazing. Despite the world wide financial problems, there are tons of big new shopping areas being built in David, and a lot of big stores from Panama City are opening in David. Now if they only keep some inventory in Chiriqui, so that you don’t have to wait for everything to come from the warehouse in Panama City.

And, again despite the world wide financial meltdown, Panama isn’t doing badly, with 2.4% economic growth during the first half of 2009.

OK, on to the fun part . . . the mail!  And the Shady Lady from Costa Rica . . .

Ooops!  Make that “Shade Lady” from Costa Rica!    Shade Lady coffee from Costa Rica . . . I like this stuff, even if it is grown in neighboring Costa Rica, and not Boquete. Actually it is grown in the same type area as Panama, just across the border. An expat gringo buys beans from local farmers, roasts the beans and then takes them down to Puntarenas to sell when the ships are in. Whenever I’m in Pantarenas I buy a bunch for my wife. Yes, we grow gourmet coffee, but coffee like wine has different flavors depending on where it is grown. If you had a winery in Napa, you’d still appreciate and want to taste fine wines from other regions: same with coffee. So Francine asks . . .

Hello. I live in Canada and have purchased Shade Lady Coffee in the past. I really enjoy the flavour and sadly, I have now run out. I’d like to order more. Can I order through you or can you can direct me to someone I can order from? Francine Kurk

The last I heard John was selling his Shade Lady Coffee directly and shipping to the US. [We've looked at doing the same thing with our coffee but the cost of shipping anything from Panama to the US is horrendous! I'm not sure why Costa Rica gets to do it cheaper, but they do . . .] Here’s the last email I had for Shade Lady . . . cofejohn@racsa.co.cr  Tell him I sent you [Richard who used to be on Holland America]. 

I received a couple of nice comments about my blog “Through The Fog” . . .

Very well written, Richard. We have all done things in our youth that we would not consider doing when we gain experience and “worldliness”. That your father passed from this world at the age that he did is testament that trial lawyers are not as smart as we think. They are, however, more selfish than we think. It’s all about them! Someday we will find out that plastic shopping bags are more hazardous to the environment than paper bags; that whole milk, eggs, and butter are better for us than skim milk, egg beaters and margarine. Until then, live life, enjoy life, and share your love. Just as your father did. And don’t worry about the smoky fog in the morning. Enjoy the view of the stars at night. Radar

And if they did, Dick, you will still follow your Father’s voice and remember to Lean on the Everlasting Arms…with that kind of comfort, what more could you ask for. Dinah 

“Steamship Row”

I will be on the Zuiderdam cruise in Nov 2009. I was born in Colon, lived in Cristobal for 9 years as a child. What is left to see in Cristobal on Steamship Row. Will you be with us as our guide. Thanks L P Helgason

LP, I will miss seeing you on the ZUIDERDAM . . . as well as all my friends on the Zuidy crew! Right now I’ll still be on vacation in November, and the end of November head off to Rome to join the ROYAL PRINCESS.

Of course everything has changed in Panama since the US left. Panama suffered the US invasion, which altered the landscape heavily in areas in the line of fire, and since then has been on a building boom. And the shipping industry is part of that boom. There are huge container ports on either end of the Canal. In Colon you have the Colon 2000 port, the new port facility Royal Caribbean built for it’s own ships, and Pier 6 Cristobal, which is the one shown in the old “Steamship Row” post card. Of course the steamships are gone, but ships like the QUEEN MARY, the CORAL PRINCESS and the ZUIDERDAM use Pier 6.

Finding a driver . . .

I am traveling to Panama 11/30/09 to 12/6/09 with my husband and 6yr old twins and two other couples. I will be staying at the new resort ”breezes” in Santa Clare. I would like to have a private driver for us [prob. two cars] can you please suggest a company or person. My travel agent is not sure who to contact. Thanks alot . Jeannine Iorio

My suggestion would be to either work through the resort, or the way I would do it, is wait until you get to Panama and talk to the Bell Captain. He will have a couple of cousins who have vans and who will do this for you . . . a lot cheaper than setting it up in advance.

“Cuidado!”

Hello Richard Detrich, Whew, needless to say you have some well written and interesting articles regarding Panama and all are a reminder to me how true you speak of Panama. I spent sometime there while serving in the military at Ft Clayton. I am considering purchasing a home site at Altos Del Maria do you know of any interesting factoids I should be aware of when considering purchasing property/living in Panama? Thank you for your time. Karl Merritt

Hi Karl! Check out my page on “Real Estate in Panama” . . . have a good lawyer, and proceed with caution.

The big question . . . what is a “farrier”?

Hi Richard, I really enjoy your blog, particularly when you talk about your experiences owning horses in Panama. FYI, a farrier is the person who keeps your horses hoofs in order and shoed, assuming you keep shoes on your horses. Bringing an expert in from the US is a great idea as there are constant new discoveries on how to deal with problems that cripple many horses. A real winner for everyone. Chuck Hart

Well, you learn something every day! Thanks! Chuck, We never owned horses . . . we just rented horses, and my wife was thrown off because the bit was old, wired together and came apart.

Check out my blog!

Hi Richard, I got your e-mail off your posts on Cruise Critic (OhioLair on CC). I have been doing research on what to do, where to do it and so on by scouring the boards. Every time I found something informative and interesting, it was one of your posts!  Thanks for all the info, and if you have any other suggestions I would appreciate a reply. We are sailing on the Statendam Oct 30th from San Diego… with stops in Puerto Vallarta, Huatulco (I liked your Corona suggestion), Puerto Quetzal, Puerto Chiapas, Fuerte Amador (The causeway sounds like an interesting area) and Cartagena! Always on a budget, any inside suggestions, hints or tips will be greatly appreciated. I am also going to check out your blog when I have a few minutes. Thanks, Larry Potts OHIOLair

Hi Larry! First, start with my Panama Cruise page . . . My general advice, “Get off the Damn ship!” Cartagena, particularly the old city, is wonderful! Don’t miss it. Puerto Vallarta and Huatulco . . . sorry, I’m not a big Mexico fan. Sit on the beach and sip Corona with lime! Panama City, without knowing your exact itinerary . . . would depend a lot on how long you are in Panama City (a/k/a Amador). Some ships stop there for only a couple of hours, and I’m not sure what the point is of that. Enjoy! The old STATENDAM was one of my early HAL ships.

My MBA cohort friends in Europe want me to do their work . . .

Dear Mr Detrich, thank you for your prompt reply and of course we will give you credit.   1. In addition to this what in your opinion, which are 5 most important issues that will affect Panama´s development in the next 10 years? Why?
2. What measures should be taken for these issues to be properly solved? Thank you very much for your reply and kind support.  Kind regards, Hanne Pinholt

Well for extra credit, I’ll do a lot.  Actually, I’ve been so busy with the casita renovations that I haven’t gotten around to this.  It turns out that they asked the same question of Valle Escondido developer Sam Taliaferro, and although Sam didn’t have time to do their homework for them either, they did cull through Sam’s Panama Investor blog and came up with a pretty good, if pretty long, summary of the things Sam has been saying.  “What are the top 5 important issues that will affect Panama’s development over the next 10 years?”

* * * *

Thanks to you, we pushed through 180,000 visitors!  Writing a daily blog is a little like grabbing a tiger by the tail!

Well, it’s off to David!  Whoppee!

Hospitals, Emergency Care and Insurance

On of the questions I’m asked most frequently about living in Panama is, “What is the medical care like?” Two days ago I wrote about “Expat Medical Care In Panama”, and yesterday I wrote about “Our Experience With Medical Care In Panama”, so today I’d like to discuss “Hospitals, Emergency Care and Insurance.”

Hospitals . . .

In David, the third largest city in Panama, 45 minute drive from Boquete, there are four large hospitals.  The Maternal & Child Hospital is a National Hospital focusing primarily on material and pediatric care.  It is only two years old and was a gift from the people of Taiwan, with whom Panama has diplomatic relations.  Almost next door is the Social Security Hospital which serves people who are working in Panama and paying into the Social Security system.    Just down the Pan American Highway is Hospital Mae Lewis, a private hospital that is used by locals and gringos.  And a few blocks off the Pan American Highway is Hospital Chiriqui, a private hospital that is generally preferred by expats because of their “insurance” program (more on that later).  Hospital Chiriqui.  Additionally, scattered around David, there are almost a half dozen tiny private hospitals owned and run by a consortium of doctors.  In some ways it isn’t very efficient, yet the hospital costs are low.  A private room runs about $60 a day!   Of the private hospitals, Hospital Chiriqui has the most “bells and whistles” including a state-of-the-art MRI machine, one of two in Panama.

Unlike in the US, in Chiriqui any doctor can practice in any hospital and you are not limited to only certain hospitals where your doctor happens to be on staff.

Emergency Care . . .

Here is where things can get a little dicey. 

If you happen to be one of the very few people to get bitten by one of our famously poison snakes, like the fer de lance which is fairly common in Chiriqui . . . and let me quickly add that your chances of getting bitten by a poisonous snake are about the same as your chances of getting struck by lightening or winning the lottery!  . . . if you are bitten by a snake anywhere in Panama you are generally about 45 minutes from a Social Security hospital which is where the anti-venom is kept.  So you have plenty of time to get to the hospital where you will find that rather than immediately giving you anti-venom there is a long waiting/observation period while they test your blood and wait to figure out what kind of snake bit you and what type of anti-venom you need.   Almost everyone, except for Indians living in very remote areas, recovers.  So although the fer de lance and bushmaster can be “deadly”, your chances of dying if you get assistance are very slim. 

OK, we got that out of the way!

When we first came to Panama my wife asked our Boquete doctor, ”So if I’m having a heart attack, what do I do?”

His response: “First you call me.  I’ll come to your house and call an ambulance.  We’ll stabilize you in David, and if necessary, once you are stabilized, we will fly you to the Panama City where the hospitals and doctors who specialize in invasive procedures are located.”

Good enough . . . but when we say “ambulance” do NOT think of ambulance service in the US!  There have been times in Boquete when we had four different ambulances . . . and none were working!  And an ambulance here is primarily a means of transportation.  Don’t think a team of trained “EMTs” on call . . . or an ambulance with any sort of equipment on board.  Over the years we’ve been in Boquete the expat community has worked hard and raised money to improve ambulance service, but it still is nothing like what we were used to in the States.

Our experience . . .

One afternoon my wife started having some kind of episode.  She was dizzy, had no feeling in her arms, was weak, and couldn’t stand up.  It looked like some kind of allergic reaction and I feared she was going into anaphylactic shock.  [We have experience with this: I am highly allergic to shellfish of any kind in any amount, and my daughter is highly allergic to chocolate.]  Without 911 or any similar kind of emergency help, I called our friend Brad, and together we carried Nikki to my car, and I went to the doctor’s office (the same guy who treated her when she was thrown off the horse . . . the story I told yesterday).  It turned out the good doctor was on vacation and the gal who was filling in not only didn’t speak any English, but wasn’t that familiar with his office.  Eventually she found the oxygen mask, started an intravenous drip, got Nikki stabilized and agreed we needed to get to the hospital in David.  She called the ambulance . . . and the “fun” began.

The doctor called the ambulance, then said to me, “They don’t have any gas. They want to know if you can pay for the gas?”   Yes!!!

So the ambulance and attendants arrived . . .  

First problem: the doctor’s makeshift treatment room and the gurney that wouldn’t fit in. 

Second problem: the ambulance crew hadn’t the slightest idea how to move a patient from a bed onto a gurney.  Somehow we managed. 

Third problem: Nikki was too big for the ambulance.  Panamanians are shorter.  So they couldn’t close the back doors of the ambulance all the way.  She wouldn’t fit!  So the creative solution was for the ambulance attendant riding in the back to wedge himself between the side of the ambulance and press his feet against the gurney to keep Nikki from sliding out the back doors, which were flapping in the wind.

Fourth problem: Nikki had an IV drip going and there was no place to hang the drip in the ambulance.  The attendant in back was busy trying to keep the gurney from flying out the back, so Nikki had to hold her own IV bag.

OK, we stopped and got $20 worth of gas.  Then we began racing down the mountain to David with lights and sirens going.,

Fifth problem: Nobody in Panama is going to move for an ambulance!    Only the expats will pull over out of force of habit.  So I’m in front, the driver is laying on the horn so people eventually will move out of the way.

Sixth problem: We start to get one of our famous, afternoon “rainy season” cloudbursts when the water is coming down in torrents.  In front the windshield wipers are barely working and in back the doors are flapping in the wind and the water is coming in soaking Nikki and the attendant who is bravely still holding the gurney in place with his feet.

The reality:  Supposedly “laughter is the best medicine” and Nikki, although the center of the drama, couldn’t help but find the humor in the situation.

Fortunately we arrived at Chiriqui Hospital and into the tiny emergency ward.  It took a while, but Nikki was stabilizedand a team of internists eventually discovered that she had developed an allergy to aspirin.    She spent two nights in the hospital, before coming home.  The ambulance ride:(for those of you who remember the original Disneyland . . . definitely an “E-ticket” ride!) $20 for gas, and another $5 (in gratitude) for beer for the guys.  Hospital: emergency room, two nights, and physicians $225.

Yet another story . . . my wife keeps things interesting!

Nikki was experiencing tingling in her arms, chest pain, yada yada . . . with her history . . . “Come on, Nikki, don’t be a hero!  Let’s get it checked now.  If it’s nothing, fine . . . if it’s not, “golden hour” and all that stuff.”  So we go to Boquete to the new clinic for such emergencies that Hospital Mae Lewis has opened.  The only problem is there’s only a receptionist staffing the clinic.  No doctor . . . not even a nurse . . . receptionist and janitor.  The receptionist informed us that the doctor was going to be coming in an hour and that we could sit and wait.    OK, so this is to be an “Emergency Clinic” . . . right.  And if it is a heart attack, we’re going to sit here and twiddle our thumbs for an hour and hope that the doctor actually does show up as scheduled . . . which, in itself, would be somewhat of a miracle anywhere, let alone in Panama.  And I’m about to have a “Richard-goes-ballistic” attack  . . .

I remembered that  a friend I had met because he had read this blog, lived in an apartment upstairs.   He is a retired nurosurgion who still consults via video cam in complicated surgeries around the world.  Although he wasn’t a cardiologist, I knew he had his own personal encounter with a massive heart attack and open heart surgery, so I went upstairs and asked him if he could just come down and take a look at Nikki.  Gracious friend that he was he put on his slippers, found his stethoscope and came down and took a look.  His verdict, “I can’t say what is going on, but I can say with 99.9% certainty that she is not having a heart attack.”  

So . . . forget paramedics and 911. 

As “oldsalt1942″ commented about yesterday’s post, “You get better or you die, and that’s the reality of health care in the vast majority of the world. You get better or you die. Period.  And let’s face it, you can’t take life too seriously because none of us are getting out of here alive.”

Insurance . . .

Folks handle insurance in different ways.  People who worked for the Canal or the US military in Panama have their own insurance.  Some people worked for companies who still provide their retirees with the insurance they were promised when they retired.  Some have their own policies from the States or some international insurance policy.  Like most insurance when you are trying to get insurance after retirement you find that the insurance companies don’t cover preexisting conditions, which is exactly what you are worried about.  And by the time most people reach retirement age they have preexisting conditions.

When you turn 65 of course and are collecting US Social Security you have Medicare.  However, Medicare only covers treatment in the US.  So unless you want to return to the US when you need medical care, which some folks elect to do, you are not covered.  When I looked at the cost of Part B for me, and what all was not covered by Part B, I decided that for me it was cheaper to just pay the full amount for the procedure in Panama.  So we, basically, self-insure . . . with a couple of exceptions.

Since we travel a lot, we purchase annual travel policies from a company in Scandinavia that cover us when we are away from Panama for emergency medical care except in the US.  When you include the US the cost is prohibitive, and at least when I am in the US, I could use Medicare.  My wife is too young for Medicare!   Since we are on ships a lot, it is important for us to have insurance that covers medical evacuation.   I think anyone is crazy who takes a cruise without having travel insurance that includes coverage for evacuation.  The cruise line wants you off the vessel and into a hospital as soon as possible, firstly for your own medical welfare, and secondly to avoid legal responsibility.  A medical evacuation from a ship by helicopter can easily run $10-15,000!  Get insurance!

Hospital Chiriqui does have an insurance scheme called Medical Services Chiriqui, or MSChiriqui which we use.  It is not really “insurance” but more of a discount plan.  A doctor visit that usually would cost $40 with a MSChiriqui coupon costs us $20.  There are discounts on almost all hospital services and treatment, somewhat akin to a major medical plan in the US.  In our case when my wife required an angioplasty and stents, because the procedure is not available at Hospital Chiriqui, we went to Hospital Patilla in Panama City and the MSChiriqui plan covered half of the cost.  After you have belonged to the plan for 2 years it does cover pre-existing conditions.  The plan now costs us about $1200 per year for both of us.

Our Experiences with Medical Care in Panama

It’s the number one question people ask me on ships when they learn I live in Panama: “What is the medical care like?”  Yesterday I wrote about “Expat Medical Care in Panama”,  and today I’d like to share some of our own experiences.

Riding Mr. Ed . . .

When we first came to Panama we used to enjoy riding horses with our friends Brad and Jackie.  We found a local guy who rented out his horses for $5 an hour.  It was great fun!  My kids were visiting so we all went horseback riding, all five of us.  I guess the guy only had four horses of his own, so he borrowed one from a friend, which turned out to be a problem horse not used to amateur riders.  My wife rode horses as a kid on her Grandpa’s ranch in Montana, and although that was a long time ago, she was comfortable on horses, but all this horse wanted to do was run.  The equipment was, well Panamanian, meaning, at times improvised and cobbled together.  As it happened the bit was cobbled together and came apart just as the horse was acting up. The horse took off, the bit was broken so my wife had no way to control the animal . . . she ended up being thrown off and landing on the pavement on her head. 

Fortunately my daughter Rebecca is a “wilderness outdoor first responder” or something like that, somewhat equivalent to an EMT except she can’t deliver babies but can pronounce people dead if they are a certain distance from a hospital.  Rebecca immediately went into EMT-mode.  We were a long way from town, and my older daughter said, “Dad, you have to get a doctor since we don’t know where to go!”

So I rode off for town, not knowing at that point whether my wife was dead or alive. 

I rode quite away until a car came along.  The driver had seen the riderless horse so knew there must be a problem.  We tied up my horse and he took me into town to the doctor’s office.  We got in his brand new Toyota with gray seat covers and rode back to the scene of the accident.  By this time my wife was somewhat responsive.  My daughter gave the doctor a quick summary.  With a head wound there was blood everywhere, but the doctor put my wife into his brand new car and we went back to his office.   It took 3 hours and 70 stitches for him to sew Nikki’s head together, and he saw her three times a week for 10 weeks.  The total cost was $850 . . . probably the cost of an ambulance ride in Southern California.

The really interesting thing was on one of the follow up visits the doctor greeted us with, “Nikki!  I’m so glad to see you!  I had a dream last night that you didn’t come in, and then I couldn’t get back to sleep worrying if something was wrong.”  How many HMO doctors in the States even know your name, if they aren’t looking at your chart, let alone wake up at night worrying about you? 

And this guy made house calls!

I told that story on the ship and a guy sitting in the front row said, “I’m a doctor, and I still make house calls and wake up nights worrying about patients!”  So there are still a few guys and gals out there . . . but, in general, it’s not the face of managed health care in the US.

So what happened?  Nikki is fine!  After spending a lifetime wasting 25 minutes every morning doing her hair, she discovered a new no-fuss, no-muss hair do that better suits our life in Panama.  We ended up buying helmets in the States, which we haven’t gotten around to using.  The guy is still renting horses, and still sometimes using the same horse, and sometimes we see obviously totally inexperienced riders on that same horse . . .  If we found a reliable place to rent horses, we’d probably ride again.  [One of the things about a non-litigious society like Panama is folks don't worry about being sued.]

Every man’s favorite day at the doctor . . .

I went in for my “every five year” physical  . . . new doctor, internist, $20 plus my insurance coupon, and another $40 for tests . . . and of course he told me “it’s time” for that guy-favorite, a day with Mr. Sigmoidoscopy.   So I called to make an appointment, expecting to enjoy weeks of eager anticipation . . . only to discover I had an appointment in three days . . . only three days becasue I needed to “prepare.”  I forget the exact cost, but most was covered by our local insuranced (more on that tomorrow), but it was quick, easy and relatively “painless” . . . unless you enjoy that type of thing. 

Roto Rooter . . .

My wife has heart disease and has had several angioplasties. This time last year she knew it was getting time to return to the hospital for another procedure. Her last angioplasty had been 12 years earlier, but the familiar symptoms were returning. We did not have a cardiologist in Panama so we began asking around and talking with gringo friends to find out who was the best cardiologist in Western Panama. There was universal agreement on one doctor. So we called and asked for an appointment . . . expecting to wait weeks . . . and he gave us an appointment the next evening. We sat down with him and he spent an hour with us, going over Nikki’s records, reviewing her medication, examining her, and explaining the situation. Although his English was somewhat limited, we received the most understandable explanation of Nikki’s condition we have received from any doctor. There was no rush. He took Nikki’s records and said he wanted “to take them home to study” and set up an appointment for stress tests. A week later we returned for a series of stress tests at his office, and began a two-month series of exams, tests, adjusting medication and diet, etc.

At the end of the two months, and shortly before I was scheduled to leave on Holland America for five months, it was decided that yes, indeed, Nikki did need an angioplasty and probably one or two stents. The doctor made an appointment with the best guy in Panama City who works out of Hospital Patilla which is affiliated with Johns Hopkins. We had the appointment right away, but it took about a week to shuffle papers between our insurance provider (more about this tomorrow) and the cardiologist to get approval for the procedure in Panama City.

So my wife flew to Panama for three days and had an angioplasty and two stents implanted, and then flew back to Chiriqui. The total cost for an angioplasty and two stents (including hospital and surgeon) was $14,000.We have a friend who had the same procedure performed in Boston, and his hospital bill alone was $60,000! Because we had a hopsital insurance scheme with Hospital Chiriqui in David, and because they do not do invasive cardio procedures, our local insurance picked up half of the cost, so our out-of-pocket cost was $7,000.

Tomorrow I’ll talk more about hospitals, insurance and emergency care.

Expat Medical Care in Panama

When I am on cruise ships the single question people ask most frequently about living in Pamana is, “What’s the medical care like?”

When we were considering countries we’d like to retire to, the question of medical care was obviously close to the top of our list as well.  [I've posted as series of three blogs based on the "Escape to Paradise" lecture I sometimes do on ships: "What is it that you want?", "What if you can't have everything?", and "How to find your nirvana".]

“Better than anyone else!”

There is amongst US Americans I think a universal assumption, well, at least until the past few years, that everything in the US must be the best in the world: after all, the thinking goes, “We are the brightest, most powerful, most knowledgeable, most generous, most blessed, most prosperous, most wealthy, most envied, most lucky, most free people in the world!”, aren’t we.  To suggest anything else, was to risk being called “Anti-American!”  That in itself reflects the common US assumption that, “Weare the Americans, and everone else [Latin Americans, South Americans, Canadians] are, well . . . chopped liver.”

Lately we’re discovering that we, like everyone else, are a flawed and struggling people.

And certainly that is true when it comes to health care.

So, before we talk about medical care in Panama, we need to think about medical care in the US.

Some quick comparisons, courtesy of the CIA [CIA Worldbook]:

Death Rate: 
USA 8.38 deaths/1,000 population
PANAMA 4.66 deaths/1,000 population

Life Expectancy at Birth:
USA 78.11 years
PANAMA 77.25 years

Life Expectancy at Birth Country Comparison to The World:
USA 50
PANAMA 58

My wife worked for the County of Ventura. Every year the County, looking to save a few taxpayer dollars, would shift to a new HMO. One of their choices actually went under taking with them, and destroying, all of the medical records of the county employees. Before we moved to Panama, my wife paid one last visit to her HMO to collect her records, have a final check up, and get prescriptions renewed. Meeting with the doctor, the doctor asked, “So how are you doing with your diabetes?”

My wife said, “You must be looking at the wrong chart. I don’t have diabetes?”

Doctor, “Oh yes you do. We diagnosed you with diabetes a year ago. Didn’t anybody tell you?”

No, in fact they didn’t! How is that for “quality” health care?

According to the Council on Foreign Relations, talking about the impact of the cost of health care on US competitiveness in the world,

“Factoring in costs borne by the government, the private sector, and individuals, the United States spends over $1.9 trillion annually on health care expenses, more than any other industrialized country. Researchers at Johns Hopkins Medical School estimate the United States spends 44 percent more per capita than Switzerland, the country with the second highest expenditures, and 134 percent more than the median for member states of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD).”

Of course the Iraq War will end up costing about $3 trillion (according to the WASHINGTON POST) . . .

We all know the US health care system is broken and may . . . or may not . . . be fixable. So let’s just drop the assumption that we have the “best” . . .

Three Systems

Panama has three health care systems:

• National Heath Care – “Salud” – you see these white, yellow and green buildings in almost every Panamanian community. It is a basically “free” or “low cost” – 50 cents to see a doctor, $1 to see a specialist – system designed mainly to treat the enormous and poor Indigenous population and those without Social Security health care. It is underfunded, understaffed, and plagued by inefficiency and bureaucracy.
• Social Security – Everyone who works in Panama must by law pay into the Panamanian Social Security system. Basically the employer pays half and the employee pays half. For our Indian worker I think we pay about $4 a week. Long lines, understaffed, and plagued by inefficiency and bureaucracy. Often doctors prescribe drugs that are supposed to be “free” but the Social Security system doesn’t have them, so users must buy them at pharmacies. Pharmacies sell drugs here by the pill. So if your doctor prescribes something, you buy only as many as you can afford, when you can afford them!
• Private System – Is the system used by many middle and upper class Panamanians, by expats, and by the increasing number of people who are coming to Panama to have procedures done, a growing industry called “medical tourism.”

Likes and Dislikes

Based on our experience, here’s what we like . . . and dislike . . . about medical care in Panama.

Like . . .

• It is personal – Your doctor has time for you. An appointment takes as long as necessary. The doctor isn’t part of an HMO and required to see 20 patients an hour to keep his or her job.
• Doctors are allowed to practice medicine – Their diagnosis and treatment plan isn’t being second guessed by a 20-year-old kid with a high school diploma sitting at a computer terminal in the HMO office.
• It is affordable – There are several reasons for this. First, Panama is not a litiginous society, so the doctor doesn’t have to order dozens of unnecessary tests to cover his butt. And the doctor isn’t paying out half or more of his or her income for liability insurance. We have the bells and whistles, and the latest equipment, but every hospital isn’t competing on the basis of having the latest equipment, the fastest (and perhaps most dangerous) helicopter evacuation service, and the plushest offices and facilities.
• It is accessible – And in this regard I’m talking mainly about the private health care facilities. At the national health and social security hospitals people endure and endless run around. But for those able to pay, and it is a little by US standards, you can quickly see a doctor and get a needed procedure.

Dislike . . .

• Appointments mean nothing: prepare to wait for 30 minutes to 2 hours. Busy doctors? Not really. Flaky receptionists, yes . . . but what’s different about that? Pretty much it’s just a Panamanian “thing” with everyone, not just doctors. Your time is theirs, their time is theirs . . . it’s the land of “manana”, and it’s just the way things are.
• No, you don’t need the most sleek and modern of everything . . . but often things “feel” grungy, which sometimes translates into feeling, dare I say, “dirty”. I know it’s not necessarily germ dirty, but . . . how much would a coat of paint cost?
• You get nervous when in the middle of a pandemic the hospital bathrooms lack soap and hand towels, especially if you come off a ship with a Purell dispenser every five feet, and Viox wipes to open the bathroom door with . . .
• Did I mention hospitals don’t necessarily have hot water? Now I grant you most Panamanians don’t have hot water: the national old wives tale is that taking a warm shower will make you sick. I know hot water isn’t necessary if you are scrubbing with anti-bacterial soap, but . . . as my wife discovered in Hospital Punta Pacifica, one of the best in Panama and affiliated with John’s Hopkins, when nurses give you a bed bath in cold water . . . well something is missing in the “bedside manner”, of which there was none.

Tomorrow I’ll share a little about our experiences with medical care in Panama.

Reading The Mail

This is from Dixie Elwell via my wife, Nikki, and I thought you’d enjoy it . . .

Getting used to new technology is difficult . . .

more so for some of us than others.

I was in Starbucks yesterday when I suddenly realized I desperately needed to fart. The music was really, really loud, so I tried to time my farts with the beat so no one would notice.

After a couple of songs, I started to feel better. I finished my latte and noticed that everybody was staring at me.

Then I suddenly remembered that I was listening to my iPod.

It is hard to believe that when I was in the dot com business, near the beginning, folks were making extravagant predictions to the effect that someday the Web would be as ubiquitous as refrigerators, and just taken for granted. When I try to talk with my 18-month-old grandson, Rian, via Web cam, when he sits still long enough, he is immediately grabbing for the keyboard. I suspect he will be emailing before he can read. The computer is just another part of everyday life . . . I was going to say, like the telephone, but who has a telephone anymore outside of the office? And even offices are going to cell phones. My daughter, Noelle, tells me that there is a whole line of retro-toys, including the little toy telephone that she used to have as a kid. Crazy!

From Beverly . . .

Hi Richard, Hope you’re enjoying your family, Panama, and time off the ship. I was on the Zuiderdam sailing the end of March into April, 2009.

I bought the large Embra Peru basket from the chief’s wife in the village; she made the basket. I think the chief’s name was Claudio. I am attaching a picture of myself with the chief, his wife, and the basket. If possible, would you email the exact name of the village and the correct name of the chief and also his wife’s name. I know it may take some time to come upon this information. I’m very patient. I consider myself fortunate not only to have the basket, but also the pictures attached.

I’ve been singing your praises on www.CruiseCritic.com. You did so much to add to the cruise. Without your lectures, the cruise experience would not have been the same. The Zuiderdam is a very happy andfriendly ship….makes for a great cruise. I appreciate any information you can provide. Regards, Beverly Achenberg 

Thanks, Beverly, for the nice complement! One of the things I suggest is that when people buy a basket or carving from the Embera, that they have their picture taken with the artisan. It makes the item so much more meaningful if you remember the person who made it. I’ve met these folks when I visited their village, along with 60 of my ZUIDERDAM friends, but I didn’t remember their names, so I called on my friend Anne Gordon for help. Anne is married to the brother of the chief of another Embera village and conducts excellent independent tours to the village.

Hi Richard, No problem. This was in the village of Parara Puru, the 2nd one on the Chagres river. The chief’s name is Claudio and his wife’s name is Ubertina. They are dear friends, and very nice people. Claudio is a very sweet and warm man. Anne
Anne Gordon de Barrigon
Embera’ friend and family member
Panama cell 011 507 6 758-7600
http://www.EmberaVillageTours.com  

Jan wonders about Mario and Old Panama

Hi, I enjoy your comments on www.CruiseCritic.comand want to thank you for all the information you have given. I have a question. I am on the Princess cruise in September that is a full transit. This year the ship is docking at Amador one day and transiting the canal the next day. We will have a day to tour. The tour of the old city with “My friend Mario Tours” lasts 6 hours. I have some mobility problems and use a cane. I need to rest sometimes but just for a few minutes. If you are familiar with this tour or one similar, do you think it is too strenuous? I realize that you do not know me and my capabilities. Just want to know if it is rough terrain, stairs,cobblestones, broken pavement, high curbs? Fast paced walking? Also, how hot and humid will it be in September? Thanks for your help. Jan

I know nothing about Mario. I see him mentioned a lot on Cruise Critic . . . he must have either a lot of family members commenting, or a lot of loyal former customers. For whatever reason a lot of folks on Cruise Critic have an aversion to ship-sponsored tours. Maybe it’s the cost issue. There is no question that just like a bottle of beer or a can of Coke, it costs more on the ship. The cruise line does have to make some money, but there are the added costs of organizing the tour, doing all the work, controlling the quality, and making sure the operators are licensed and have insurance. Some people claim that it’s not the cost, but they just don’t like being with a “group.” OK, so you go to Ephesus or the Colosseum and there are 50 million tour groups, and your little “independent” group is sandwiched in amongst the bus load groups. I frankly don’t see the difference.

Anyway . . . I digress. Panama City, or just “Panama” as it is known within the Republic of Panama, is actually three cities . . .

• Modern Panama with all the people and skyscrapers
• Casco Viejo, the old city from the French era reminiscent in many ways of New Orleans
• Old Panama, the original Panama City dating back to the 1500’s that was burned in the aftermath of the raid by the pirate, Henry Morgan.

Sometimes it tour groups Casco Viejo and Old Panama are confused. In the Casco Viejo there are tiny streets that really don’t accommodate buses, so much of the tour is a walking tour over uneven and some cobblestone surfaces with steps, etc. It is the only way to really see Casco Viejo. While there are some places to sit down, unless you are on a private tour you will find yourself left behind.

Old Panama is a UNESCO site and a restoration, in progress, of the ruins of the old city. There is actually a bridge you can still walk over from 1513! Again it is a lot of walking, and some uneven and gravel surfaces. There are no benches or places to sit down.

And Panama City, being 9 degrees off the equator and at sea level is always hot and humid.

My advice, Jan, take a ship-sponsored tour, maybe the train, that involves less walking. The concept of “accessibility” is pretty much unknown in Central America making it difficult for people with limited mobility or walkers, scooters, and wheel chairs.

Costa Rica tours . . .

Greetings, We are booked on the Zuiderdam for the 10 Day Sunfarer in February. With all your Z’dam experience I’m guessing you may have been to Puerto Limon. We are looking for recommendations for one of the shorter excursions. Do you have any comments on the “Off Road Adventure” or “Pineapple Farm – A Taste of the Tropics”? I’ve posted the question on Cruise Critic Ports of Call and had no responses. Thank you very much, Mike Weddle

You’ll have a great trip on the ZUIDERDAM, Mike! “Puerto Limon”, literally “Lemon Port”, not because they raise or ship lemons, but because years ago there was a big lemon tree downtown, since obliterated by the town hall. But “Lemon Port” is a good name for this place, because it really is a lemon of a port. If you stay on the ship and just walk around town, not necessarily recommended, you will be VERY disappointed, particularly if you judge all of Costa Rica by Puerto Limon. But, if you “get off the Dam ship” and take a tour that takes you out into the real Costa Rica this will be a highlight of your cruise. Although I’ve done most of the tours in Puerto Limon I’ve never done the Pineapple Farm or Off-road Adventure. My wife, and the ZUIDERDAM shore ex staff went ont he Pineapple Farm and loved it. The Off-road Adventure is always sold out, which is why I never got to tag along, and guests have always come back and raved about the adventure and the funny guides. My personal favorites are the Veragua Rain Forest and Tautic Hacienda.

And finally . . .

Can you please furnish contact info for my Carl (Calley Janson, Cafe Volcan Baru, Chirqui province? Thanks, Tim Killen

Sure enough! Google . . . Carl Janson, Vice President, Cafe Volcan Baru, S.A., 011.507.672.2018,
carl@estatecafe.com

Clearing My Desk

My allergies are killing me.  July is the worst month.  Note to self: get contract for next July and be at sea!

To escape working on the 15 new lectures I need for ROYAL PRINCESS this fall, I will clean off my desk . . .

Thank you! Thank you!

I love your website. I have been researching Panama for the last 2 years. My husband and I are making our way down there in 01/10. We will be staying in various areas throughout Northern Panama. I am AF retired and my husband will be retiring in 2011. I am also a teacher with certification in ESL and ESLBL. He does remodeling jobs on the side. We look forward to our relocation adventures and thank-you for the vast information your site provides. Pam

Embera Canoes . . .

Thank you for this great blog. One question about the Embera Indian Village Tours – if you have difficulty with getting in and out of a canoe would there be an alternative to see the village? Not sure I could do that , especially if there was no dock available! Ginny

Actually the “canoes” are great big trees that have been chopped down and hollowed out by hand. Each one seats about 20 people two abreast, so they are very sturdy. You get in from shore, not from a dock, so it is very stable and easier than getting in from a dock. There are lots of Embera folks to help you in and out and getting up and down. They are used to hosting older folks with weak knees. Go for it!

And what about the ZUIDERDAM . . .

Richard, I follow your posts on Cruise Critic and have learned so much from your website. I hope you will be on the Zuiderdam’s partial canal transit in April 2010. Carol O

Thanks for asking Carol, but I will be on the ROYAL PRINCESS at that time. Princess and Holland America are of course sister companies, both owned by Carnival. And before anyone asks, Princess asked first, and as my friend at Holland America observed, “The early bird gets the worm”, me, I guess, being the “worm.” You will have a great time on ZUIDERDAM Carol, even without me. Great ship, great crew, super itinerary!

Retirees or Beach Bunnies???

To echo many others on this site, thanks for all the wonderful information you are providing. For most of us, this cruise is the one time we will go to Panama, so we want to get the best out of it we can. Your blog helps so much.

We love Holland America (and wish we could see you!) but on this trip we chose Princess because we liked the ports better. The 7 hours at Half Moon Cay was the deal breaker. What is the thinking, when most of the passengers will be retirees and not beach bunnies?

Jo-An, I will actually be on Princess this winter, on the ROYAL PRINCESS doing primarily the Amazon. Your thoughts about Half Moon Cay as the first port of call, the day after embarkation, were initially mine as well. In reality, it works wonderfully! I would greet everyone coming off the tenders on Half Moon – almost to a person they looked tired, hassled, a little shell-shocked. When I’d remind them they were going to a “beach party not a wake” you’d see a hint, just a spark mind you, of a kick-back, fun, vacation mood. By that evening when I’d see the same peope before the show they would be a little red, but relaxed, ready to have fun and on vacation! Half Moon had worked it’s magic!

For Brent . . .

Brent is the “Techspert” on Holland America’s ZUIDERDAM who assists all our special guests in undertanding and using Microsoft’s photo and video software . . . and it’s free!  Brent is amazing!  Eight hours a day he takes the same questions over and over and over again!

So for Brent, and anyone who has ever called a computer help desk . . . only difference being these guys speak English and not Hindi or Spanish . . .

Canal Question . . .

Hi Richard, we are a youngwed couple from Poland and will do the full transit with the sea princess and have the following schedule
04.10.09 PUERTO AMADOR, PANAMA (8AM-6PM)
05.10.09 PANAMA CANAL (5AM-4:30PM)
Can You recommend me a tour to see panama city on the 04.10. ? are there some ancient churches, sites and stuff from colonialization times to see? what else could we do with the day at Puerto Amador. I think the 05.10. will be reserved for the transit and we can not get off the ship, isn´t it? thank you in advance..
Thomas Lodzinski

Thomas, check out my page Panama Cruise for ideas . . . You might find it worthwhile to hire a taxi at Amador to show you around the both the Old City, the remains of the original 1500s city, and Casco Viejo, the old French section. I’d guess about $20 an hour for cab and driver. And you are correct, on the fifth you will actually be in transit through the Canal.

There was a lot of interest in my comments about fly traps . . .

Bonnie Williams . . .

Where does one get those fly traps? I haven’t seen them.

Bonnie, We bring them back when we go to the States. I haven’t seen them in Panama. They are a seasonal item at Home Depot. Ah, Home Depot . . .the things you miss!

Great idea from Shirley . . .

I use those same traps here in Alaska. They do get the flies, but if I cook meat with the door open some still come in. I hang the traps in trees so they are out of sight and I don’t have to smell that awful odor. I also use a little meat, with a little water, so it doesn’t dry out. What ever draws those flies into the house will also draw them into the trap. Here in AK I take the traps down at the end of the season, empty them into the burn barrel, while the fire is going, and reuse the traps the next year. Probably no burn barrels in Boquete, in Costa Rica we had the only one around.. . .

Thanks Shirley, I’m going to try it! Now why didn’t I think of that???

Try hanging plastic bags (like zip lock bags, or something similar) filled simply with pure water, wherever you don’t want flies to bother you. This works for my grandfather – he hangs them from the cover of his porch and wah-lah – flies don’t come there – and there are always flies in the area where he lives.

Probably looks like hell, but if it works . . . hey.

OK, it’s back now to working on my Port Talk for Cape Verde . . .

Mail Call

Chuck asks about “Grit and Glory” . . .

Hi Richard…Just came across your Panama Canal website and was impressed with your knowledge of the area. I sent you an email via Facebook, but don’t know if your yahoo email is the same so am emailing you again to make sure you get my email. My wife and I retired from teaching last year and all that time, I have wanted to transit the canal. Looked into several cruises, but they are all too long. Then I inquired into an Elderhostel trip this coming January, Grit and Glory, Exposing the Panama Canal. It is a 5 day trip, transits the canal with several tours to experience the canal operations and a train ride too. Sounds too good to be true and was wondering if you have had any experience with Elderhostel or can give us any advice on this type of journey. Thanks for your input. Chuck Purcell in Sacramento, CA

Thanks Chuck. I like in theory the Elderhostel concept. We frequently had Elderhostel groups on ships where I’ve been lecturing. My impression of the Elderhostel groups I’ve seen are they seem to be well organized, but they do everything as a group, by themselves. They get only the information the Elderhostel leader provides, missing all the lectures and info given on the ship. So they seem to be in a world of their own as the shuffle on and off the ship, seemingly clueless to what is going on. Depending on your age, you may or may not fit. On the ship it is a very older group. Sometimes it seemed like we had a group from a senior citizen’s facility on board, not that there is anything wrong with a senior citizen’s facility, but understand it is a older, highly structured and directed group, often reminding me of a group of kindergardeners in the way they were “herded” and moved about. Maybe when I’m 97, but it wouldn’t be something I personally would find appealing at 67. Since you’ve “just retired” . . . I don’t know. If you can’t swing a cruise, why not just come to Panama, book a hotel, book the same ferry trip through the Canal that undoubtedly Elderhostel will have to use, and if you want to take the train (which is really no big deal), take it. For background read some of the books I suggest . . . do your own research, make it yours, and have a bit of an adventure. Hope that helps.

Coffee and Colon . . .

Richard: I read your coffee advise on Cruise Critic with great interest. I have acquired a taste for different coffees, especially Costa Rican. I especially enjoy the ones that come from the smaller farms to a central distributor. For the first time in April, I purchased coffee in Columbia and enjoyed it as well. We are coming to Panama (Colon) in November via cruise ship and would like to purchase some from there as well. I have two questions I hope you will have the time to answer.

1) We have been through the canal both east and west bound as well as several partials. This time the ship is all day in Colon and I would like to shop at the Free Zone. Do they let tourists in to shop and are you able to bring your purchases back to the cruise ship with you? Would it be safe to grab a cab at the cruise terminal to take us there and would we be able to catch a cab back? (I am not very fluent in Spanish.)

2) Are there grocery stores where we could buy the coffee safely (it must be decaf) and do you have a brand that you recommend (if your crops are not up for sale). (If they are I’d love to try them.)

Oops, I guess that is more than two questions. Thank you for your response and any advice you can give.
Kathryn Pringle, Sunny South Florida

They do allow cruise guests to shop in the Free Zone if you have a passport, proving you are not a local, and your ship ID card. However, the Free Zone is the second largest in the world, a hudge sprawling mini-city of places that cater primarily to the wholesale buyer, and not to tourists. So finding what you want, especially if you don’t speak Spanish, could be a challenge. Most things can be brought back onto the ship, but of course it depends on the regulations of your particular cruise line. Remember the Free Zone closes at 4PM.

Depending on which port you are at, you may, or may not find cabs. I’d use only the licensed yellow cabs, and I’d be cautious. Unfortunately Colon is not a safe city for tourists, unless you have a high degree of “street smarts.” At the RCCL dock and at Colon 2000 you can generally find or hail a cab. At Pier 6 Cristobal there generally are a few cabs, but the cruise lines all advise against going outside the pier areas on your own in Colon.

Our coffee is sold to a big coffee producer in Panama called Sitton. Some of their coffee is sold in grocery stores as Sitton, others is shipped off to Europe, Canada and, yes, Starbucks. So if you drink Starbucks maybe every billionth coffee bean is mine! Several stores in Colon have asked to sell my coffee, but as yet we haven’t made a decision. If we do, you will be the first to know! There are stores at the piers that sell various brands of Panamanian coffee. Ruiz, Sitton, Palo Alto, Duran are a few of the popular brands. If you are at Colon 2000 pier there is a big Super 99 grocery store that has all the popular coffee brands as well as Panamanian rum.

Paul & Marilyn wonder if Panama City has changed in 17 years . . .

Hello Richard, The family is doing a full transit aboard Coral Princess next March. Our itinerary includes a stay at Amador (Panama City). My wife and I were stationed at Howard AFB in 1992 & 1993. Anti-American sentiments were still running pretty high and you never stopped anywhere in the city that didn’t have armed guards in the parking lot. Whole areas of the city were off limits.

We have never missed an opportunity to get “get off the ship” to see the port cities where we stop but Panama City may be the first. I would hope conditions have improved over the past 17 years.
I’m not asking “What’s the best tour for …”. I am asking what’s new in town and is there a good reason why we should get off the ship.

Coral will also stop at Cartagena. Do you have any words of wisdom for touring this port city? Thanks,
Paul & Marilyn

Has anything changed? In a word, “Everything.” 1992 was just three years after the US invaded and blew up half the city! The US is gone. The Canal is Panamanian. Panama is on an economic roll. There are scores of huge skyscrapers that were unimaginable in 1992. It is a whole new world. Panama City is a city of over 2 million people, so like any city anywhere in the world there are a few places you may not wish to wander around at night. But definitely get off the ship, or as I say when on Holland America, “Get off the Dam ship!” and see some of Panama. Panamanians love most things US, and most people from the US. They even liked George W. Bush for crying out loud. Like anywhere else in the world, they don’t like “ugly Americans”, or more accurately loud, obnoxious, haughty folks from the US. But if you are polite and respectful of people and their history and culture . . . no problem.

If you are wondering about Howard, check this out!

Cartagena is a wonderful city to visit! There is a lot to see and do, so I’d suggest taking a ship’s tour that includes a walking tour through the wonderful old city!

Beautiful Boquete’s gardens . . .

Richard: I took at look at your blog early this morning and note that you’re knee-deep in gardening endeavors. I’m an avid gardener and have a new but developing-quite-nicely garden here in the Palo Alto area of Boquete. Steve Walker, who did the initial landscaping at Paradise Gardens, set me up with a stone wall, paths, an orchid casita, a pond and waterfall, some plants, etc., and I’ve taken it from there. I’ll be in the plant sharing mode soon.

I thought you might be interested to know that there’s a garden club here. I was afraid it might turn out to be the tea party kind of club common in the U.S., but I’ve been pleasantly surprised to find that it’s a serious undertaking. It is led by a couple of Potrerillos residents who owned a nursery back in the States; at each meeting they give a talk on some aspect of growing plants and respond to questions from the members. There’s a great deal of exchange of information, as well as plant exchanges.

Meetings are held on the third Thursday of each month at the homes of club members. This affords the opportunity to see what other folks here are growing and how well the plants perform in the various micro climates. There is no membership fee.

Bonnie Williams, Palo Alto, Boquete, Chiriqui

I haven’t had time to attend since we’ve had company, but I hopefully will have opportunity before I’m off on another cruise contract. If you need contact info for Bonnie and the garden club let me know.

“Retiring In Panama” wondered . . .

Hi Richard, I am looking around your blog as I said. But what about your timeline? Maybe I haven’t come across the posting yet where you moved to Panama. Where should I begin?

We live in the Chiriqui highlands – Chiriqui is a “state” – just above a town called Boquete in a little crossroads of a place called Palmira. I came to Panama in December of 2004. To find out where we are, check the Boquete page.